New York, London, Milan, Paris: I haven’t attended New York fashion week in a couple of years now. But that’s ok, since the entire experience of schlepping between the shows and waiting, and waiting, can be quite cumbersome and less than glamorous, but, of course, the real-life experience of the 20-minute runway show does make up for the wait. However, these days it’s much easier to flick through every ready-to-wear runway shot of Autumn Winter 2016 on my iPad at the speed of lightening and edit directly to Pinterest. At the end of a month-long clicking frenzy, a multi-city fashion story is revealed.
For Autumn/Winter 2016 the evidence of the 80s glam was prolific. At Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane delivers over-the-top silhouettes, which epitomises the era by exaggeration, in sequins, patent leather, belted waist and highly-structured cuts worn by models that reminded me of Robert Palmer’s video “addicted to love.” Isabel Marant crosses her bohemian-chic sensibility with a nod to the 80s, styled in more relaxed easy-going pieces, juxtaposed with plenty of layers in textures, embellishments and embroideries—also seen at Roberto Cavalli, Etro and Chloe, with a touch more structure at Prada and Givenchy.
Plenty of plaids, tartan, checks, and stripes walked the runways, especially at Victoria Beckham, and by Massimiliano Giornetti at Salvatore Ferragamo, who showcased lashings of linear styles down its multi-colored striped runway. I love Barbara Bui’s leather check mini-two-piece and matching jacket; Missoni showed a stunning cape, and Burberry rocked a perfect overcoat paired proportionately with wide plaid and wide collars.
The dark side influenced a few designers, which looked particularly sexy at Elie Saab, edgy at Sacai, and more Goth at Marc Jacobs. Ruffles ruled everywhere, almost every collection featured a style with a ruffle, including shoes with ruffles, and bags all ruffled. Prepare to be more ruffled this winter. But, a few collections noted a less-obvious styling, which I found quite intriguing—a sweater and dress combination, very wearable, and I might consider the ensemble later this year.
The tough-chic utilitarian styles never fail for fall, bomber and biker jackets galore, and the wardrobe classic, the long military-style coat in camouflage, as seen at Valentino, Nina Ricci and John Galliano.
With the heaviness and layerings for winter, neutrals, blush tones and shades of cream evoke a lighter air especially with tulle and sheer embroideries. Perfectly pretty, the elongated silhouette for evening continues to reign on the runway, making the dress a dramatic statement with many designers including Temperley London, Mary Katrantzou, Valentino, Alberta Ferretti, Gucci and Alexander McQueen.
In summary, my favourite collections this season undoubtedly Alexander McQueen, Loewe, Gucci and Givenchy.